Structure–Property Relationships in Periodate Oxidized Cotton Fabrics: Role of Textile Pretreatments

Abstract

This study investigates the influence of conventional textile pretreatment and periodate oxidation parameters on the structural modifications and functional properties of woven cotton fabrics. Unlike most studies focused on cellulose pulps or isolated textile fibers, the present work examines how the initial structural state of the textile substrate, determined by its pretreatment history, governs the oxidation pathways. Cotton fabrics were subjected to alkaline scouring (SC), hydrogen peroxide bleaching (BC), and combined scouring– bleaching (SBC), followed by sodium periodate oxidation under controlled conditions. Carbonyl species were quantified analytically and identified by ATR-FTIR spectroscopy, while structural changes were evaluated by X-ray diffraction (XRD). Mechanical properties were assessed using the normalized parameters (Fa/Fa₀ and E/E₀), hydrophilicity by water absorption capacity (WAC), and optical stability by the yellowness index (YI). The results demonstrated that the pretreatments influence the oxidant accessibility and the balance between carbonyl speciation. XRD analysis shows a moderate decrease in crystallinity, indicating partial preservation of the crystalline domains, whereas mechanical properties decrease significantly (35–65%), concomitant with a 25–45% reduction in WAC. These results suggest that the impairment in mechanical and hydrophilic properties is primarily governed by localized C2–C3 bond scission, secondary oxidative reactions, and supramolecular rearrangements, rather than by bulk crystalline loss. The oxidized SC series exhibits higher YI values associated with an increased free aldehyde content, while the BC and SBC fabrics show improved optical stability. Overall, these results demonstrate that pretreatment history governs periodate oxidation pathways and establishes clear structure–property relationship relevant for the controlled functionalization of woven cotton fabrics.